To see the Milne-Edwards sifaka at Ranomafana National Park, you need to hike up and down a slippery path of clay, tree roots, and rocks, then go off the path to squeeze through closely spaced trees and vines until you spot black and white fur through the brush.
The foliage is so crowded that most of your pictures will be of leaves, not of the sifaka who is the star of your afternoon. But stand in the mud until water seeps into your shoes and you might get one or two good shots.
If something pinches your ankle, don’t worry. It’s just a branch, not a forest leech. Of course, it’s completely possible that you have leeches biting you. You just won’t know it. Their mouth parts are too sharp to feel.
It’s all worth it.